And, whatever you do, don’t miss lunch, dinner or any meal you can make, at Farah in the Latin quarter — an Eastern Mediterranean restaurant founded by chef Heba Kharouf, who was behind the bar chopping herbs and chatting warmly with her patrons. Octopus, a perfect tomato salad, chocolate ice cream with olive oil. Rarely have I eaten so well on a city break, surrounded by diners who were clearly thinking the same thing.