And while the auroras can sometimes be seen further south – even appearing over Stonehenge last month – you’ll maximise your chances by going as far north as you can, which in Europe means Norway. Its crenelated northern coast arches over the 69th parallel, comfortably located inside the auroral oval even when it’s at its weakest, so you don’t need unusual space weather conditions to see the lights, just clear skies. It’s less cloudy than Iceland and less frozen than neighbouring Finland, with the sea keeping temperatures higher. The coast is dotted with excellent places to observe the lights all the way round to Kirkenes, close to the Russian border, where I saw the aurora dance deep green right over the roof of the Snowhotel, popping out to catch the display between courses of Arctic char tartare and reindeer steak.