The sight of the art set as they descended on Mayfair over Frieze last week was a something spectacular to behold — a guffawing, Birkin-bumping crowd, shuffling into the Old Masters tent after champagne on Berkeley Square.
En masse, they were a vision of black Issey Miyake pleats and neon On trainers. However, it was in a corner of the Richard Green gallery space at Frieze Masters where the true winter style inspiration could be found. L.S Lowry’s (1887 – 1976) matchstick men, working in wintery, industrial towns and wearing perfect, dark overcoats, flat caps and bulky, black leather boots. As far as 2024 winter pin ups go, the Stretford-born artist was not on the bingo card.
The new Lowry look: Private White V.C.’s capsule campaign shot
Private White V.C.
But it’s not just the gallerists who are taking note of his brand of mundane, winter chic. Cue Manchester label Private White V.C., who have “translated his stark yet always striking aesthetic” into the most charming capsule collection. Beautiful macs. Made in Manchester, naturally.
“L.S. Lowry has always been an idol of mine. His evocative portraits capture the essence of our city’s industrial heartbeat in a way that no one else has managed to do over the past century,” says James Eden, founder of Private White V.C.
L.S. Lowry’s A Factory Town under Snow sold for £300,000 at Sotheby’s in June
Sotheby’s
“I wanted to celebrate Manchester’s industrial past with a tribute that connects the artistry of our clothing to the spirit of the city. How else, and who better, to partner with than one of the Manchester’s most celebrated artists?”
As for the collection — the second drop of which is available now — Eden explains: “we focused on Lowry’s evocative use of muted, industrial tones, his portrayal of working-class life, and the extraordinary sense of humanity he brought to seemingly ordinary scenes. His ability to capture resilience and beauty in bleakness always resonates profoundly with me, as does his unique portrayal of everyday people — each character brimming with life and purpose — set against the powerful backdrop of bustling factories and chimneys bellowing smoke.”
There are fantastic rugby shirts, cashmere polo necks, cord bomber jackets and a charming “The Lowry Cuddler” overcoat which comes in ink and pebble shades.
Colour, says Eden, was the focal point. “We drew directly from Lowry’s distinctive five-colour palette — flake white, yellow ochre, vermillion, ivory black, and Prussian blue — translating his stark yet always striking aesthetic into wearable, durable, and comfortable garments. From fluid fly-fronted cotton raincoats to classic wool top coats — styles synonymous with the region’s factories — each piece is made in Manchester using regionally sourced yarns, cloths and materials.”
And what does he think the late, great artist would make of all this? “We know Lowry wore garments made in our factory throughout his life, and so if he were alive today, I’m convinced he wouldn’t shop anywhere else!”
Lead image: Laurence Stephen Lowry, Man looking at something, 1961, POA, richardgreen.com
Three key pieces to buy now:
Private White V.C
Private White V.C
Private White V.C.