Caroline Hirons’ guide to retinols and skincare: everything you need to know

Ask any skincare expert about the ingredients they rate, and retinol will invariably come up. Yes, it’s sometimes a bit irritating while skin is acclimatising, and yes, there is no one-size-fits-all when it comes to skin health – but few ingredients are as thoroughly tested or as heavily endorsed as retinol, for good reason; it gets results, often in the form of plumper, smoother skin.

As one of its most vocal champions, Caroline Hirons’ approach to retinol in her own range has been a godsend for those who find choosing one baffling. Here, she explains everything you need to know about using a retinol to demystify skincare’s most talked about ingredient.

“The retinoid family, also known as vitamin A, is the gold standard ingredient for improving the appearance of the skin. It works by increasing cell turnover and stimulating collagen production, which over time and consistent use, reduces the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, texture, and sun damage. Increasing cell turnover also decongests the skin, making it a good choice for breakout-prone skin too.”

“Retinoic acid is the purest and strongest form of vitamin A – you will find this in prescription-only products such as tretinoin. Most people will not need this and can achieve the results they want through over the counter products.

Retinaldehyde (most commonly referred to as retinal) is closer to retinoic acid but is less powerful. However, it still packs a punch and is clinically proven to work 11 times faster than retinol, making it a good option for seasoned retinoid users who want to level up. You can find retinal in Skin Rocks Retinoid 2.

Retinol is the most common form of vitamin A available in over-the-counter skincare products, and is offered in a variety of strengths and formulations, however, depending on the strength, it can be irritating, and is now limited to usage at a maximum of 0.3% by the EU. HPR (hydroxypinacolone retinoate) is a retinol ester, meaning it is oil-based. This makes it a great option for sensitive skin or total retinoid beginners, as it has a low potential for irritation, but will still give you results. Choose Skin Rocks Retinoid 1 if this is you.”

“Retinoids are a marathon, not a sprint, so start on a milder percentage and work your way up slowly. Remember that percentages across different forms of retinoids are not equal – for example, 0.1% of HPR will gently increase cell turnover, while 0.1% of prescription retinoic acid will potentially burn your face off if you dive straight in.”

“Depending on the product, start with low-strength formula and use a pea sized amount at night, once a week to begin with and assessing how your skin reacts. Gradually increase frequency of use over time. Once your skin acclimatises, which is different for everyone, you can expect to see smoother, plumper skin with fewer lines and a more even tone. It is normal to experience some redness, flaking and irritation to begin with, but if your skin feels tight, burned or sore, just stop. If you don’t see any side effects straight away, you might be tempted to use more frequently than suggested, but trust me, go easy.”

“You should wear SPF on your face and neck every day as a general rule, but this is particularly important when using retinoids, as they may increase sensitivity to the sun, and undo all the hard work that the product has done in the first place. Only the very experienced should use retinoids in the same routine as any kind of acid, and even then, proceed with caution. You can use retinol year-round with appropriate sun protection.”

“What people mean when they refer to this is that they’re eating vitamin A, which can be found as beta-carotene in vegetables such as carrots. While this is a good source of vitamin A, it will not have the same effect on your skin as a topical retinoid. And if you eat too many carrots, your skin will eventually turn orange, which is known as carotenemia.”