The island’s capital, Saint George, nestles along a horseshoe harbour with its old pastel-hued houses. Further inland, a heaving, vibrant green awaits travellers, with rainforests, waterfalls and the braided hills of plantations. Those in on the secret are rewarded with wildly delicious street food, superbly simple restaurants brimming with character, such as Dodgy Dock, and snaking rainforest trails that lead to bottomless lakes and empty beaches.